(BTW, if you're craving a lobster roll in Freeport, I have nothing against Linda Bean's, but I recommend getting out of the shopping district and heading to South Freeport, to Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster.)
Showing posts with label Eastport. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Eastport. Show all posts
Friday, August 8, 2014
Week Downeast, Day 4
There's not much I like more than a lobster roll. Linda Bean markets hers as Linda Bean's Perfect Maine Lobster Roll (TM, I am sure). Then sells them in downtown Freeport. Well, I have news for Ms Bean; the perfect way to eat a lobster roll in Maine is at some little dockside shack, with a high school or college age girl taking your order and calling for you to come and get your morsel of paradise over a loudspeaker ("eighty-five, number eighty five, your order is ready"). Gulls should be looking over your shoulder as you eat; a cool breeze should be washing over you, and lobster boats should be hauling traps within view. It should all look something like Quoddy Bay Lobster, which you can find down a little dirt road just south of downtown Eastport. The lobster roll was sweet, the company was great, and the day was perfect. And I do mean perfect.
(BTW, if you're craving a lobster roll in Freeport, I have nothing against Linda Bean's, but I recommend getting out of the shopping district and heading to South Freeport, to Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster.)
(BTW, if you're craving a lobster roll in Freeport, I have nothing against Linda Bean's, but I recommend getting out of the shopping district and heading to South Freeport, to Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster.)
Monday, August 4, 2014
Week Downeast, Day 1
8 AM: We run downtown to grab a quick breakfast at the Bakery in Eastport. Things are quiet on a Monday morning, but promise to pick up. We eat at the waterfront amphitheater, where there will be an evening concert on Wednesday, and stroll along the waterfront before taking off for the day.
10 AM: As fog rolls in from the Bay of Fundy, we head out onto the flats at Cutler. Clammers drive right out onto the flats here and dig as the tides roll out then in. We make our way out to a rock island, covered in Ascophyllum nodosum, and search for green crabs. There are plenty under the rocks, but none on the flats. The dog has a fine time roaming around off leash, and we tell the clammers we're just tourists in Dunlops (our green rubber boots, a favorite amongst the fishing crowd).
12 PM: We hike out the Coastal Trail at Cutler Public Lands Reserve, hoping to get a glimpse of Grand Manan Island from the States. We know we're getting close to the ocean when the temperature drops a good ten degrees. No surprise though -- the fog is thick in Grand Manan Channel, so there'll be no view of Grand Manan for us. I head back to the trailhead while Damon goes for a run along the extensive trails. Whlie I wait for him, I pick ripe raspberries, and even save some for tomorrow's breakfast.
3 PM: The dog tolerates yet another hike at West Quoddy Head, the easternmost point in the United States. Competing foghorns come from every direction on the Coast Guard Trail. Luckily it's an easy trail with a terrific overlook at the end.
5 PM: We stop into Lubec for a snack on the deck of the Water Street Tavern and Inn, watching the tide rip along between Lubec and Campobello. Seals pop up in the narrows and the ferry from Eastport pulls in with a full cargo of tourists.
7 PM: Drinks on the deck as the sun goes down, followed by a dinner of grilled portobello mushrooms, corn on the cob, and a big salad. The dog collapses after a long day, and Damon and I plan our big day tomorrow -- whale watching in Passamaquoddy Bay.
10 AM: As fog rolls in from the Bay of Fundy, we head out onto the flats at Cutler. Clammers drive right out onto the flats here and dig as the tides roll out then in. We make our way out to a rock island, covered in Ascophyllum nodosum, and search for green crabs. There are plenty under the rocks, but none on the flats. The dog has a fine time roaming around off leash, and we tell the clammers we're just tourists in Dunlops (our green rubber boots, a favorite amongst the fishing crowd).
12 PM: We hike out the Coastal Trail at Cutler Public Lands Reserve, hoping to get a glimpse of Grand Manan Island from the States. We know we're getting close to the ocean when the temperature drops a good ten degrees. No surprise though -- the fog is thick in Grand Manan Channel, so there'll be no view of Grand Manan for us. I head back to the trailhead while Damon goes for a run along the extensive trails. Whlie I wait for him, I pick ripe raspberries, and even save some for tomorrow's breakfast.
3 PM: The dog tolerates yet another hike at West Quoddy Head, the easternmost point in the United States. Competing foghorns come from every direction on the Coast Guard Trail. Luckily it's an easy trail with a terrific overlook at the end.
5 PM: We stop into Lubec for a snack on the deck of the Water Street Tavern and Inn, watching the tide rip along between Lubec and Campobello. Seals pop up in the narrows and the ferry from Eastport pulls in with a full cargo of tourists.
7 PM: Drinks on the deck as the sun goes down, followed by a dinner of grilled portobello mushrooms, corn on the cob, and a big salad. The dog collapses after a long day, and Damon and I plan our big day tomorrow -- whale watching in Passamaquoddy Bay.
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