A Week Downeast, Day 3

Into every vacation, some rain must fall.  This one was no exception.  We packed in a lot today, nonetheless: Cobscook Bay State Park, where visitors can dig for clams without a permit, and Reversing Falls Park, where the huge tides of Passamaquoddy Bay rush though a narrow passage into Cobscook Bay (and out again six hours later).  All followed by a mussel feast back at the cottage; juicy little tidbits of the ocean cooked in a white wine and garlic broth.  I collapsed into bed after that, exhausted but happy.

What the heck is a peck?

It was a gray kind of day -- cool, with thunder rumbling in the distance.  We pulled on our boots and trudged out through the marsh to the mudflats.  Wanna get away from the crowds?  This'll do it every time.

One of the concerns about green crabs in Maine is their use of mud banks along the edge of the salt marsh for shelter.  We did find quite a few crabs holed up in the marsh here.  

Dory, much to her dismay, found a mud hole.  She. Was. Not. Amused.

We puzzled over this fine, linguini-esque seaweed that grew very high on the edge of the mud flats.  Finally, we decided this must be very stunted Ascophyllum nodosum (although we are up for suggestions to the contrary).

Cobscook Bay was spectacular -- and ever so quiet.

"Remember when I fell in that mud hole?  Don't you feel guilty about it?  Maybe you should get me a hamburger to comfort me."

Hoping to visit the reversing falls?  This is about the only help you'll get along the way.  Luckily, it was pretty straightforward.

This photo doesn't do the Reversing Falls justice.  The water was tumbling between the mainland and an offshore island, churning and foaming.  Very impressive.  (BTW, a great place to see seals.)

A panoramic shot.

More rushing water.

  

By now it was pouring.  Good thing I just got a waterproof camera (we'll see if it lives up to that name . . . .)

Quoddy Bay Lobster was hopping.  Their mussels ($3 a pound) were very clean . . . 

. . . and delicious with a beverage on the side.  Fuel for tomorrow's busy day.

Week Downeast, Day 1

8 AM:  We run downtown to grab a quick breakfast at the Bakery in Eastport.  Things are quiet on a Monday morning, but promise to pick up.  We eat at the waterfront amphitheater, where there will be an evening concert on Wednesday, and stroll along the waterfront before taking off for the day.

10 AM:  As fog rolls in from the Bay of Fundy, we head out onto the flats at Cutler.  Clammers drive right out onto the flats here and dig as the tides roll out then in.  We make our way out to a rock island, covered in Ascophyllum nodosum, and search for green crabs.  There are plenty under the rocks, but none on the flats. The dog has a fine time roaming around off leash, and we tell the clammers we're just tourists in Dunlops (our green rubber boots, a favorite amongst the fishing crowd).

12 PM:  We hike out the Coastal Trail at Cutler Public Lands Reserve, hoping to get a glimpse of Grand Manan Island from the States.  We know we're getting close to the ocean when the temperature drops a good ten degrees.  No surprise though -- the fog is thick in Grand Manan Channel, so there'll be no view of Grand Manan for us.  I head back to the trailhead while Damon goes for a run along the extensive trails. Whlie I wait for him, I pick ripe raspberries, and even save some for tomorrow's breakfast.

3 PM:  The dog tolerates yet another hike at West Quoddy Head, the easternmost point in the United States.  Competing foghorns come from every direction on the Coast Guard Trail.  Luckily it's an easy trail with a terrific overlook at the end.

5 PM:  We stop into Lubec for a snack on the deck of the Water Street Tavern and Inn, watching the tide rip along between Lubec and Campobello.  Seals pop up in the narrows and the ferry from Eastport pulls in with a full cargo of tourists.

7 PM:  Drinks on the deck as the sun goes down, followed by a dinner of grilled portobello mushrooms, corn on the cob, and a big salad.  The dog collapses after a long day, and Damon and I plan our big day tomorrow -- whale watching in Passamaquoddy Bay.