Monday, August 4, 2014

Week Downeast, Day 1

8 AM:  We run downtown to grab a quick breakfast at the Bakery in Eastport.  Things are quiet on a Monday morning, but promise to pick up.  We eat at the waterfront amphitheater, where there will be an evening concert on Wednesday, and stroll along the waterfront before taking off for the day.

10 AM:  As fog rolls in from the Bay of Fundy, we head out onto the flats at Cutler.  Clammers drive right out onto the flats here and dig as the tides roll out then in.  We make our way out to a rock island, covered in Ascophyllum nodosum, and search for green crabs.  There are plenty under the rocks, but none on the flats. The dog has a fine time roaming around off leash, and we tell the clammers we're just tourists in Dunlops (our green rubber boots, a favorite amongst the fishing crowd).

12 PM:  We hike out the Coastal Trail at Cutler Public Lands Reserve, hoping to get a glimpse of Grand Manan Island from the States.  We know we're getting close to the ocean when the temperature drops a good ten degrees.  No surprise though -- the fog is thick in Grand Manan Channel, so there'll be no view of Grand Manan for us.  I head back to the trailhead while Damon goes for a run along the extensive trails. Whlie I wait for him, I pick ripe raspberries, and even save some for tomorrow's breakfast.

3 PM:  The dog tolerates yet another hike at West Quoddy Head, the easternmost point in the United States.  Competing foghorns come from every direction on the Coast Guard Trail.  Luckily it's an easy trail with a terrific overlook at the end.

5 PM:  We stop into Lubec for a snack on the deck of the Water Street Tavern and Inn, watching the tide rip along between Lubec and Campobello.  Seals pop up in the narrows and the ferry from Eastport pulls in with a full cargo of tourists.

7 PM:  Drinks on the deck as the sun goes down, followed by a dinner of grilled portobello mushrooms, corn on the cob, and a big salad.  The dog collapses after a long day, and Damon and I plan our big day tomorrow -- whale watching in Passamaquoddy Bay.

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